9 Best Japanese Blueberry Tree Problems All About 2022
Japanese blueberry (Elaeocarpus Decipiens) is an evergreen tree that grows 40 to 60 feet tall with a spread of 20 to 40 feet, although a dwarf variety exists. It blooms in small white flowers in spring, adding a touch of fragrance to the garden. Japanese blueberry trees have some problems when grown in zones 8b through 11 on the US Department of Agriculture Plant Hardiness Zone Map.
If the Japanese blueberry tree is planted too deep or in heavy soil that does not drain well enough, it is susceptible to root rot, especially in periods of rain. It also has problems if it is planted in alkaline soil or shade. Some plants cannot take up iron from the soil when the pH is too high and become chlorotic. Finally, Japanese blueberry trees are frost intolerant, and even a small amount of frost can cause spike damage.
The Japanese blueberry loses leaves if it is not getting enough sun. If the tree is pruned into a bush, the interior, where it is shaded, may drop leaves. If the leaves are dry and brittle when they fall off, it may be a root problem, such as rot. If the leaves, on the other hand, turn yellow but have dark green veins, suspect chlorosis. Advanced cases of chlorosis can affect the entire tree or just one side of it. Leaves may turn white and develop brown edges.
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If the Japanese blueberry tree is losing leaves in shaded areas, move the tree to a sunny location. To determine if the tree has root problems, dig into the soil near the base of the tree to check the soil’s moisture content. If it’s soggy and smells coming from the soil, it’s most likely root rot. The only hope you have of saving the tree is to move it to an area with better drainage. Chlorotic Japanese blueberry trees require iron supplementation. There are several methods of application, the most effective being a soil spray composed of equal parts iron sulfate and elemental sulfur.
The best way to prevent root rot is to plant the Japanese blueberry tree in well-drained soil. To avoid chlorosis, check the pH of the soil in the planting area before planting the tree. County cooperative extension offices offer low-cost soil tests and will help you determine what soil amendment is necessary. Other preventative measures include:
- Aerating the compacted soil at the base of the Japanese blueberry tree.
- Avoid the use of black plastic mulches.
- Using low phosphate fertilizers.
Choosing blueberries OUR BUYING GUIDE FOR CHOOSING YOUR BLUEBERRIES
- According to the size of the shrub
- according to your floor
- According to fruit color
- According to the caliber
- According to the harvest period
- According to exposure
- According to performance
- According to its hardiness
- According to fruit flavor
Originally from the mountains, blueberries, or Vaccinium corymbosum by their Latin name, are shrubs of the heath family. This classification also includes cranberries and cranberries ( Vaccinium myrtillus and Vaccinium macrocarpon ). Their berries, blueberries of a beautiful purplish-blue – also called blueberries in Quebec or bramble when we speak of wild blueberries – or red in cranberries and cranberries, are among the delicious little fruits that we eat in summer. Raw or most often cooked.
Less present in our gardens than the raspberry or the currant because they are considered difficult to grow, they nevertheless deserve a place of choice to enjoy their incredible variations in the kitchen: jams, syrups, pies, sorbets, cooked wines, liqueurs, but also as an accompaniment, of savory dishes. This fruit contains vitamins C, polyphenols, and flavonoids, which have anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties, strengthen capillary resistance, are an anti-ulcer, and improve night vision. By reserving for your blueberry trees a corner in partial shade and a slightly acid soil that is always fresh, you benefit from all its benefits, in addition to a beautiful shrub with delightful flowering and magnificent blushing autumn foliage forVaccinium corymbosum. Remaining modest dimensions, it is finally an excellent choice for small gardens, where it can grow in pots.
Our buying guide advises you on finding the best variety and helps you get to know this wonderful shrub with fruit full of taste promise!
Raw blueberries for fun, cranberry juice, incomparable blueberry pie, let yourself be tempted by the blueberries!
ACCORDING TO THE SIZE OF THE SHRUB
The size of blueberry trees is important if you want to integrate them into a bed or plant them under the shade of taller shrubs.
Vaccinium corymbosum reaches between 1 m and 4 m in its original environment; Vaccinium myrtillus (wild blueberry) remains a stockier shrub with a maximum height of 60 cm. The cultivated varieties you will install in the garden are hybrids of Vaccinium corymbosum: these American blueberries have a spreading habit with erect branches. Slow growing, these blueberry trees generally reach between 1.30 and 1.50 m for a spread between 1 m and 2 m.
Among the taller varieties, ‘Patriot’ can grow up to 2m and ‘Bluecrop’ has a bushier habit up to 2.30m. The smallest for hotpot or small garden: ‘Bluetta,’ ‘Yellow! Berryblue®’, and lingonberries and cranberries remain ultra-compact.
Know that the blueberry does not like to be moved, so choose carefully the location you reserve for it. With a lifespan of almost 50 years, you can integrate it in beds of heather earth plants or in groups to ensure good fruiting.
ACCORDING TO YOUR FLOOR
The blueberry fears arid and calcareous soils. The pH of your soil will ideally be 5.5 or lower. It is important to keep the soil cool in summer with a draining substrate because it fears stagnant humidity in winter. A peat mixture at planting is a good idea. The shallow roots of the blueberry require acidity; the important thing is to acidify your soil on the surface using softwood chips as mulch or a mixture of grass clippings, needles, and pine twigs, which you will bury after a year. To amend and lighten your soil, add humus, for example, with leaf compost and well-decomposed compost. Water if you can help with rainwater.
A blueberry tree planted with a good mulch of pine bark
ACCORDING TO FRUIT COLOR
Vaccinium corymbosum all have bluish fruits covered with bloom, and cranberries and cranberries have red berries. This magnificent blue color is due to the anthocyanin concentrated in the fruit’s skin. This pigment, which is also found in other fruits such as grapes or cherries, turns out to be a powerful antioxidant.
An atypical cultivar, ‘Pink Lemonade,’ has surprisingly pink fruits: it has a sweet and very mild flavor.
Blueberry ‘Patriot’, Blueberry ‘Pink Lemonade,’ Cranberry
ACCORDING TO THE CALIBER
American cultivars offer the largest fruits. ‘Bluecrop,’ one of the oldest cultivars, presents large dark blue fruits. ‘Powder blue,’ ‘Brigitta,’ ‘Patriot,’ ‘Spartan,’ ‘Yellow! Berryblue®’, ‘Berkeley,’ ‘Ivanhoe,’ and ‘Chandler’ are among the varieties with the largest fruits.
Small-fruited varieties like ‘Goldtraube’ of European origin have a flavor close to wild blueberry.
Among the large fruits: ‘Bluecrop,’ ‘Brigitta,’ and ‘Powder blue.’
ACCORDING TO THE HARVEST PERIOD
The blueberry harvest is late in the summer, often from August until September. Some varieties, however, are much earlier, start at the end of June, and can continue until October. Period variations are also dependent on climatic conditions and your region. Indulge yourself by staggering production by planting different varieties that help with good pollination.
- Early varieties (from the end of June): ‘Collins’ and ‘Stanley,’ then ‘Polaris,’ ‘Duke,’ ‘Patriot,’ ‘Estive,’ and ‘Bluett.’
- Mid-early varieties (July): ‘Bluecrop’ (one of the oldest cultivars introduced in France, interesting for its slow and regular production, the harvest is stretching from July to early September), ‘Berkeley,’ ‘Reka,’ ‘Atlantic,’ ‘Flamingo,’ ‘Pemberton’ and ‘Dixi.’
- Late varieties (from August): ‘Rubel,’ ‘Jersey,’ ‘Burlington,’ and ‘Darrow’ in September, ‘Sunshine Blue’ and ‘Powder blue’ in September-October
Lingonberries and cranberries are harvested later: from September to November, for the ‘Pilgrim’ cranberry.
Myrtillier ‘Patriot’ particularly early, and ‘Sunshine Blue,’ late.
ACCORDING TO EXPOSURE
One rule should be remembered for these mountain shrubs: blueberry trees fear the full sun and strong heat, but they need it to ensure good fruiting. They should therefore be planted in partial shade in most areas. It means that the morning sun is ideal, and you should avoid the full sun in the early afternoon. In the country’s south, a more shady exposure is to be expected. These recommendations concern cultivated blueberries (American hybrids) and not wild blueberries, which prefer shade.
Blueberry trees appreciate a semi-shaded or sunny exposure in the country’s north.
ACCORDING TO PERFORMANCE
The big advantage of blueberries is that their production lasts about 40 years! Young plants only offer a good harvest after about four years, so be patient and plant a few slightly more mature plants (2 years old) to benefit from a harvest the following year.
Among the hardy and productive varieties, we recommend ‘Atlantic,’ ‘Brigitta,’ ‘Patriot,’ ‘Ivanhoe,’ ‘Goldtraube,’ ‘Spartan,’ and ‘Bluecrop.’
ACCORDING TO ITS HARDINESS
Blueberries easily tolerate down to -25°C, but their fine root system is particularly sensitive to drought. ‘Patriot’ is ultra-hardy, resistant down to -40°C, ‘Jersey’ and ‘Bluecrop’ also tolerate very cold climates.
It should be noted that resistance to cold and acid soils is often greater in large fruits ( V. corymbosum ) than in wild or smaller-fruited blueberries.
ACCORDING TO FRUIT FLAVOR
You should know that American blueberries have a less marked flavor than wild blueberries of European origin. In terms of taste, everything is very personal, but we can distinguish more or less tangy and sweet flavors.
The ‘Estive’ variety is one of those most reminiscent of the wild blueberry, fruity and tangy, just like ‘Goldtraube’ and ‘Flamingo,’ as well as ‘Emil’ and ‘Darrow’ which are very tasty and sweet. ‘Jersey’ and ‘Bluecrop’ have a very tangy taste which is particularly appreciated.
Bilberry and blueberry (Vaccinium myrtillus) for gourmet jams
The wild blueberry ( Vaccinium myrtillus ) is a very discreet, hardy sub-shrub, rarely exceeding 60 cm in height. Originally from Europe but also from Asia, the wild blueberry grows mainly in the middle mountains, particularly in the Vosges and the Massif Central. In North America, the blueberry ( Vaccinium corymbosum ), called blueberry in Canada, is as popular as strawberries here.
The small size of the wild blueberry, its spreading habit, and its upright, angular, green branches, give it a proud appearance and reveal all its vigor, whereas the cultivated blueberry is a shrub 1 to 2m high. Its small oval, shiny, deciduous, finely toothed leaves are bright green in summer and turn red when autumn arrives.
Clusters of flowers in bells or bells appear in May on the blueberry and will give birth to the dark blue fruits of the same name. The berries of the cultivated blueberry are much larger than the wild blueberry’s and are less tasty.
Perfect for gourmet pies and jams, blueberries (44kcal/100g) are rich in carbohydrates, organic acids, tannins, vitamins B1 and C, as well as proanthocyanidins. Surprisingly to the end, the blueberry also helps improve night vision thanks to the anthocyanins it contains. The cultivated blueberry also offers a high content of polyphenols and vitamin K.
- Family: Ericaceae
- Type: wild or cultivated fruit tree
- Origin: Europe, Asia, North America
- Color: dark blue fruit
- Sowing: yes
- Cutting: yes
- Planting: fall
- Flowering: May
- Harvest: July to September
- Height: 20 to 60 cm (wild) and up to 2 m (cultivated)
Ideal soil and exposure for planting blueberries in the garden
Bilberry thrives on very acidic, light, sandy soil. A partial shade exposure suits it perfectly because it has nothing against the sun but does not support the heat.
Date of sowing and planting blueberry
It is possible to sow the blueberry, first under cover and in a warm place, then report once the plant is strong enough, but arm yourself with patience!
A muffled cutting can be practiced in the spring in April.
Planting is done in the fall, keeping 1.5m between 2 feet of cultivated blueberry. If they are not self-fertile plants, they must plant at least two varieties to promote pollination and obtain better production.
Council of maintenance and culture of the blueberry
In dry weather, make sure to keep the soil moist.
You can acidify the soil by adding heather soil to it.
Diseases, pests, and parasites of blueberries
The looper caterpillar is the main enemy of blueberry plants.
Harvesting, conservation, and use of blueberries
The harvest of wild blueberries is tolerated for up to 2kg per person; it is done either by hand or with a blueberry comb.
New conservation is a few days, but the blueberry can be dried or frozen.
It can be eaten fresh, dried, or cooked to make coulis, sorbet, liqueur, syrup, or, of course, pies or other pastries.
Location and favorable association of blueberry
Please choose a location where the blueberry will be sheltered from the too-hot sun rays, which it does not appreciate. Do not move the foot, which can remain in the same place and bear fruit for 50 years. Pot culture is possible if you have no other solution in terms of space or if your soil is clayey or calcareous.
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9 Best Japanese Blueberry Tree Problems All About 2022
Last update on 2022-09-29 / Affiliate links / Images from Amazon Product Advertising API